Cumbria Way, Day 8, Day off in Keswick

Who would think that a pencil museum would be fascinating? But that is a prime attraction in Keswick, where the graphite pencil was invented. Also produced here is a famous brand of art pencils called Derwent. Not only does the little museum tell the history of pencils, but there is a room where you can just go and draw. And of course, there are dozens of gorgeous art pencil sets to buy. We all succumbed.

A fascinating feature of the museum was the story of how Keswick pencils became a tool for Allied soldiers to use behind enemy lines in WW II. Special hollowed out pencils were created with a tiny compass and rolled up maps of enemy areas, with escape routes marked. From the outside, the pencils looked absolutely ordinary. Their creation was so top secret that only the factory managers knew about it. After the workers went home, the managers sneaked back to the factory at night to produce the military pencils.


Outside of Keswick about a mile is the Castlerigg stone circle. England, Wales, Scotland and Ireland have many stone circles. This is one of the largest and best preserved. It is probably about 3,000 years old. What were the circles used for? No one really knows. There is speculation that they were: centers of worship, or astronomical tools, or ceremonial centers, or market places....or perhaps all of these.


Whatever their original purpose, they are impressive structures. There is a sense of both endless time and timelessness when you stand inside of one.